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K2
K2 is the second-highest mountain on Earth (after Mount Everest). With a peak elevation of 8,611 meters
(28,251 ft), K2 is part of the Karakoram range, and is located on the border
between the Taxkorgan Tajik Autonomous County of Xinjiang, China and Gilgit, in
Gilgit-Baltistan of Pakistan.
K2 is known as the Savage Mountain
due to the difficulty of ascent and the 2nd highest fatality rate among the
'eight thousanders' for those who climb it. For every four people who have
reached the summit, one has died trying. Unlike Annapurna, the mountain with
the highest fatality rate, K2 has never been
climbed in winter.
The first serious attempt to climb K2
was undertaken in 1902 by Oscar Eckenstein and Aleister Crowley, via the
Northeast Ridge. After five serious and costly attempts, the team could only
reach up to 6,525 meters (21,407 ft). The failures are attributed to a
combination of questionable physical training, personality conflicts, and poor
weather conditions — of 68 days spent on K2 (at the time, the record for the
longest time spent at such an altitude) only eight provided clear weather
An Italian expedition finally succeeded in ascending to
the summit of K2 on July 31, 1954. The
expedition was led by Ardito Desio, although the two climbers who actually
reached the top were Lino Lacedelli and Achille Compagnoni. The team included a
Pakistani member, Colonel Muhammad Ata-ullah, who had been a part of the 1953
American expedition. Also on the expedition were the famous Italian climber Walter
Bonatti and Pakistani Hunza porter Mahdi, who proved vital to the expedition's
success in that they carried oxygen to 26,600 feet (8,100 m) for Lacedelli and
Compagnoni. Their dramatic bivouac in the open at that altitude wrote another
chapter in the saga of Himalayan climbing.
The peak has now been climbed by almost all of its ridges.
Although the summit of
Everest is at a higher altitude, K2
is a much more difficult and dangerous climb,[citation needed] due in part to
its more inclement weather and comparatively greater height from base to peak.
The mountain is believed by many[who?] to be the world's most difficult and
dangerous climb, hence its nickname "the Savage Mountain."
It, and the surrounding peaks, have claimed more lives than any others. As of
August 2008, only 299 people have completed the ascent, compared with about
2,600 individuals who have ascended the more popular target of Everest. At
least 77 people have died attempting the climb. Notably, 13 climbers from
several expeditions died in 1986 in the 1986 K2 Disaster, five of these in a
severe storm. More recently, on August 1, 2008, a group of climbers went
missing after a large piece of ice fell during an avalanche taking out the
fixed ropes on part of the route; four climbers were rescued, but 11, including
Gerard McDonnell, the first Irish person to reach the summit, were confirmed
dead.
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